Beyond the suit: exploring Vivienne Westwood’s menswear instincts

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The difference is substantial: you can buy clothes, or you can try to build a real wardrobe. And it’s precisely from this attempt to shape a new male fashion that Vivienne Westwood’s latest men’s clothing collection emerges.

Even with the presence of jackets and suits, of polos and shirts that draw on classic tradition, there’s been no fear of taking clear decisions. And seeing them through. Calling it a simple clash would be lazy, because this latest Vivienne Westwood collection has very clear ideas – at least for anyone willing to look a little deeper at what these pieces can conceal and express.

The tailoring is always recognisable – structure is evident in every more formal piece – but stripped of any pointless rigidity. That’s what we found when we explored the latest work from Vivienne Westwood’s design team.

Overdoing it, gracefully

With every Vivienne Westwood collection, we have to reckon with something slightly unwelcome: the long list of reviews and “informed” opinions that tell us about:

  • the fusion between street and regal style
  • tartans that echo tradition
  • kilts as the ultimate provocation

You could stop there and wrap up yet another pompous, tedious review of a collection that actually deserves far better attention.

We could talk about the lack of obvious structure, with pieces that, even while playing with asymmetry, still deliver a perfectly resolved look – albeit in Vivienne Westwood’s own language.

We could talk about the fusion between classic garments – blazers, tailoring – and more demanding, statement pieces that pair with them without effort. And we could talk about the careful use of a tradition that is living history rather than catalogue, party rather than museum.

We won’t linger on it, because the photographers have also done an excellent job, offering the public a very precise visual idea of what you’ll actually find in boutique. A quick visit to the website and you’ll be able to confirm this reading of the collection.

It would, however, be a crime against a collection that expresses so much more, and that long-standing fans of the House will know how to appreciate.

British – more serious than it looks

It’s undeniable that the British style that has invaded the world, now it was present at the concerts and alternative music evenings.

The British designer who sadly left us. It is a pleasure just to look at these garments; wearing them could really change the way you understand look and style.

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